Aloha

1 August 2018

Hawaii and I have a history. Six or so years ago, when I was living in Canberra, my sister and I toyed with the idea of meeting in Hawaii. As it happens, Honolulu is almost exactly halfway between Canberra, Australia and Camilla, Georgia. We could meet, celebrate my sister’s birthday and have a lovely tropical vacation. Instead, Steve and I decided to move to Wellington, so the trip to Hawaii was postponed.

Two years later, we decided it was time. For several weeks, I researched, planned, schemed, questioned and made bookings. It would be a little bit Waikiki and a little bit low key. Just me and my sis getting around, seeing new things, drinking mai tai’s and enjoying each others company. Instead, I had a tumble off my bike and my visit with my sister took place in the Auckland Spinal Unit.

I can honestly say there are few things more heartbreaking than ringing a snorkel tour guide in Hawaii to say you’re not coming. I can also honestly say that one of the few things more heartbreaking than ringing that guide is the cold, hard realisation that it is unlikely to ever happen. This was not a postponement, it was a cancellation. In the mind of Claudia 2.0 three years ago, there was no way I would be able to fly that far, enjoy the beach, push myself around a city, and get off the beaten path in a way that would be not only do-able but enjoyable.

I was wrong.

It took a little bit more planning, a bit of diligence in choosing accommodation, more support from my loving partner, and slightly modified expectations. But we did it. We did it. We did it. What follows is how and who and where.

First step: get there. I am not up to traveling alone on a long haul flight (maybe one day – I’ve stopped ruling things out), so the trip included Stellar Steve. If one must make allowance for change, including someone like Steve instead of traveling alone is actually a bonus, not a concession. We flew with Air New Zealand and they know how to take care of their passengers. I contacted their support crew ahead of time to let them know I use a wheelchair for mobility, I answered their questions about wheelchair type and size, and they could not have been more ready for me. Check in was a breeze. Getting into an aisle chair was a breeze. They had my personal chair ready for me in Auckland so we could get to the international terminal without assistance. They had the aisle chair ready for me for the next flight and they kept the aisle chair on board so I could get to the toilet mid-flight. Nothing was a problem for the air crew or the ground crew – they took absolutely everything in their stride. When we arrived in Honolulu, my chair was out of the hold and ready for me within minutes.

On the ground in Honolulu, an airport staff member – also named Steve – took charge of me and two other wheelchair passengers to guide us the back way through the airport avoiding escalators and airport renovations to get us to passport control. We went in the short line with air crew. We were treated to speedy service right through the airport and baggage claim, and our ground transportation (SpeediShuttle) was waiting for us.

Second step: stay there. Claudia 1.0 booked accommodation at small hotels and probably would have gone the AirBnB route – Claudia 1.0 was past staying in hostels, but was a bit more adventurous in accommodation choices. Claudia 2.0 is a little nervous about what is meant by ‘accessible’ in accommodation advertising, so I booked the Hilton, which I felt sure would comply with Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) requirements. The Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki was lovely. The room was spacious, the bathroom had a roll in shower as well as a bath with shower over, the hand basin was roll under, three of the pools had hoists that were easy to use, and the whole village was accessible with ramps and flat, wide doorways.  The room had a small but accessible balcony overlooking the resort and the ocean. We had a couple of our meals in hotel restaurants and both the service and the food were excellent.

Not surprisingly, the village is fully self-contained. One could have a complete holiday in the village without ever leaving its borders. In addition to pools, bars, and restaurants, there are clothing and souvenir shops, ice cream parlours, and a big luau in the evenings.

Thank you, Hilton, but staying in one spot and not seeing the sights really isn’t for me. My only complaint – minor – is the distance to Waikiki beach and other ‘off campus’ sights. I am pretty sure I pushed more during those four days than I had pushed in the previous 2 months combined. I didn’t have to – there are accessible buses and trolleys ($2 will get you anywhere in Honolulu) – but I did. For me, the pushing and getting around is part of the fun. The main areas of Honolulu are beautifully accessible with well-paved paths, and easy curb and gutter crossings. The main beach at Waikiki has a blue mat for rolling out to the sea.

Third step: on second thought, keep moving. Rather than staying in Honolulu for the entire trip, we hopped over to ‘the big island’ of Hawaii to get a taste of something different. Hawaiian Airlines had inexpensive fares between islands, and their service was excellent. Like Air New Zealand, I rang them ahead of time to let them know what I needed, and they provided it. I traveled with a shower chair as well as a bag containing spare wheels with fat tyres and a “freewheel” for off-roading, and none of this was charged as ‘excess baggage’. Aisle chairs were at the ready, and my chair was available within minutes of arrival at our destination.

Fourth step: unpack and make yourself at home. We flew into Hilo, a smallish town on the east coast of the island of Hawaii. It is low key, has a few good cafes and restaurants, and it is home to two botanical gardens and a couple of State Parks. There are a couple of hotels here, but we decided to stay a little outside of Hilo at Mahana House Country Inn. The rooms are very spacious and kitted out with a small kitchenette, king sized bed with sleep number mattress, spacious ensuite bathrooms (mine had a roll in shower with no steps or edges), and a lovely lanai (open verandah) with views to the ocean. There is also a very spacious common area with a full kitchen, so if you’re like me and you have a sister who makes the best southern fried chicken inside or outside of Georgia … what? you don’t have one of those?

Hosts Randy and Alison are the kind of people who are there if you need them, but completely out of view if you don’t. They are ready with suggestions for cafes, places to visit, and things to do. The property is a working tropical fruit farm, and bananas, avocados, lychees and longans are free for the taking whenever they’re in season. I ate their entire 2018 profit margin in bananas.

While there, we visited the botanical gardens – a living seed bank for plants from the tropical areas of the world – and Mauna Kea observatory.

At Mauna Kea  we stayed on in the evening at the information centre and looked through telescopes trained on specific points of interest in the night sky. If you get the chance to go, be sure to pack your thermals, it is high and cold.

Step five: get yourself out and about. After Mahana House, we drove north to Hawi for a taste of remote Hawaii. This area of the big island is covered in points of interest related to Hawaii’s history. King Kamehameha was born here, there are Heiau (temples) and other cultural sites, and of course, lush tropical vegetation. The plan was to stay at Kohala Village Inn and Hub – I booked months in advance and even spoke to them on the phone to make sure the accommodation would be wheelchair accessible. Unfortunately, it was not. The Hub includes a cafe and lots of open space for yoga, music, dance classes, and other cultural practices and learning. I was really looking forward to it. Although the Hub is wheelchair friendly, the accommodation is not. My chair wouldn’t fit through the bathroom doorway in any of the rooms and the shower was not accessible even if I’d managed to get into the bathroom. The staff were apologetic, but that’s not particularly helpful when you’re there and in need of a room.

So it was back to yet another Hilton, this time further south on the Kailua-Kona coast. Again, lovely rooms, accessible property, accessible pools, but not what I would call an ‘authentic Hawaii experience’. We stayed two nights and managed to book a snorkel outing with Body Glove.

What an amazing little adventure their cruise was! It was easy to get onto the boat, there was a light breakfast available on arrival, the staff were young and energetic and capable, and no request was too big. There are accessible toilets on board, and they provide all of the equipment you need to have fun in the water. Ola lifted me (with the aid of Steve) down the stairs and into the water. As he said, this was not his first Luau, and he inspired confidence in the way he helped me and made sure I was comfortable. They had a floating ‘lily pad’ attached to the boat so a person could easily just hold onto that and float face down to see fish and coral. Using a couple of pool noodles and Steve’s hand, I could paddle out and around to see what I wanted to see. At least three of the staff members are watching at all times to make sure people in the water are safe and enjoying themselves.

Lunch is served on board and there is a full bar for those who might want a refreshing mai tai after a paddle in the sea. I cannot say enough good things about this outfit.

Our final night on the Big Island was at Luana Inn – again, something of a guest house a little inland from Kona but with ocean views. I had to do a bit of adapting to take a shower and the pool was not accessible, but we were only there one night. With a bit more thought and planning, it could be a much more accessible place, and I will be encouraging them to make a few small changes that would be a big difference.

Step six: make sure to get in those last minute sites. Back in Honolulu, we took a tour to Pearl Harbour with Enoa, did a little bit of last minute shopping, ate some lovely local food, and snorkeled Hanauma Bay.  Pearl Harbour is completely accessible, including the boats out to the Arizona memorial. When we were there, the Arizona memorial itself was closed for maintenance, but the boat still ran us out there and turned and stalled and turned some more so that everyone on board had the opportunity for a good view. Hanauma Bay is also accessible with snorkel gear for rent AND free beach chairs to borrow so you can get into the water. There is a trolley providing a ride down to the bay itself (able bodied people pay $2.50 for the return trip, people with disabilities ride free) and both park service staff and volunteers are there to make sure you have fun.

Our final days and nights in Honolulu were spent at the Waikiki Parc. This is a lovely hotel, well located, with a focus on accessibility. The basic room we had (no ocean view, not huge) was ample with nice accessible touches. Large bathroom with roll in shower, a basin I could roll under, a push button auto-opening door to the room, ramps over the door sill to the balcony and a lovely rooftop pool with hoist. The hotel is just over a half-mile push to the main Waikiki Beach and there are about half a million shops, cafes, bars and restaurants in between. I can recommend the Mai Tai Bar at The Royal Hawaiian for a cocktail and a view of the sea. Even the roll through the grand lobby is worth a few minutes.

Step seven: Finally, the trip home and a moment to reflect. I’ll admit to a touch of sadness on arrival in Hawaii. This was not the trip I planned four years ago. This was not going to be Claudia 1.0 hopping in and out of the surf with ease, helping and encouraging my sister to snorkel for the first time, driving to Mauna Kea and hiking to the top, going for a trail run to a remote waterfall. There I sat, overlooking that famous beach, grieving the past, present and future and wanting something different to what I have. One thing I’m pretty poor at doing is hanging on to the downside. Cry? sure. Keep crying? not so much. Get it out and get on with it.

I had a wonderful holiday. I was enabled by my sister and my partner to do and see some amazing places. I was able by myself to get around and catch up with friends I hadn’t seen in years. I felt warm trade winds. I swam over coral alongside beautiful tropical fish. I ate beautiful meals of fresh seafood and southern fried chicken. I drank refreshing cocktails with little paper umbrellas. I learned about old Hawaii and saw with my own eyes their ancient places. I laughed along with everyone else at the Samoans in their Village at the Polynesian Cultural Centre. I relaxed.

Some things about it were hard. I had to plan more, adapt more, and try more. I had to ask for help sometimes and push myself hard sometimes. But this is aloha – this is what we love, how we love and why we love.